Harlequins

I did manage to get my Harlequin Ducks in the wild with the help of our awesome mate and skiff captain, Megan. In the town of Baranof there is ONE year round resident, four dogs, one store, two docks, a hotspring, a few bathhouses, a beautiful waterfall and during the summer upwards of 18-20 residents. There are also Harlequin Ducks.

Harlequins love rushing waters and they are quite skiddish when approached from land. Megan maneuvered the skiff between submerged rocks and into the mouth of the waterfall, which was absolutely raging thanks to the spring melt, all the while holding the boat steady enough for me to frame and fire. I can't thank her enough for her efforts to get me the shots I wanted.

It is amazing how much shelter one rock can give, looking at these images you would never know we were battling a huge current caused by the waterfall. The day was cloudy so I was able to avoid harsh shadows and the green Rockweed provided a vibrant background for these birds that I could not have planned better. A great day. Thanks Megan!

Glacier Bay National Park

There are no roads into Glacier Bay National Park, access is by boat or plane only. While many people who visit arrive on large cruise ships and never step foot on the land around the glaciers, there are many who arrive in their own boats or even plan kayak trips up the fjord created by the retreating glaciers. It is an incredibly pristine area that is home to some amazing wildlife.

I entered the Bay on a 120 foot yacht with 18 fellow passengers run by American Safari. We had our own naturalist on board the vessel but we stopped in Bartlett Cove and picked up our own private ranger who acted as our guide. We spent two days cruising the fjords, kayaking, skiffing and hiking and watching the huge cruise boats motor up to a safe vantage point to the glaciers and then turn and motor back out of the park. I felt sorry for the people trapped behind the glass windows on those boats. They didn't get to see the pile of 6 river otters that tumbled out of a cave in front of our skiff, they didn't get to watch the green-wing teal cavorting at the edge of Lamplugh Glacier as we hiked past and I know that the baby mountain goats were just specs in their binoculars if they knew they were there at all. Standing on shore near a 250 foot wall of ice, listening to the glacier groan and crack, smelling the clean fresh air coming off the ice and the cool breeze on my face was incredible. I've already decided that I need to go back next year with a kayak and spend some time camping. Now I just need to find some people who aren't afraid of a few brown bears to go with me... paddling against the wind by yourself can be hard.

In 1794 Glacier Bay wasn't a bay at all. It was an enormous glacier up to 4,000 feet thick, 20 miles wide and extending over 100 miles into the St Elias mountain range. By 1879 when John Muir visited, that glacier had retreated more than 30 miles. By 1916, the Grand Pacific Glacier had retreated more than 60 miles to the head of Tarr Inlet. As a glacier moves forward it pushes a protective layer of rock and debris in front of it. Once the glacier reached the ocean that layer was washed away and the glacier was doomed to retreat. There are currently 11 tidewater glaciers (glaciers that flow into the ocean) that break off or "calve" into the ocean or fresh water lakes at sea level. The show is spectacular. The broken bergs provide great haul out spots for harbor seals, eagles and arctic terns.

Cheers for Sitka

Sitka might have a huge influx of people on a daily basis from the cruise ships but they strive to keep the town feeling and being real. The small downtown area can get pretty congested with people but stepping off the main strip finds immediate relief from the tour boat crowd. Small coffee shops and a terrific bookstore and TONS of parks with really well maintained hiking trails make Sitka a joy to visit.

We throughly explored the Sitka National Historical Park which was established in 1910 to commemorate the Battle of Sitka of 1804. The park is also known as Totem Park because the main trail is decorated by many large and colorful totems. Another path will take you to the Sitka Raptor Center which gives you the opportunity to see Golden and Bald Eagles, Hawks and Owls up close and personal.

On the North end of the city (there are 12 miles of road in Sitka) is the Halibut Point State Recreation Area with three terrific hiking trails. The Mosquito Cove trail is a 1.25 mile loop through the forest with excellently maintained stairs and steps leading you to a mosquito shaped cove where we watched harbor seals and eagles frolic. On the inland side is a 0.5 mile boardwalk called the Estuary Life Trail which was perfect for watching birds and I'm sure salmon once they begin to travel upstream to spawn.

The South end of the city has an area called Whale Park. There are lots of viewing areas, both at the parking lot level and down several flights of stairs, for people to watch for whales, sea lions and seals in the sound. The stairs also provide access to the rocky shore below where anemones and star fish can be seen in the tide pools formed by lower tides. Renting bikes or a car to get out of the main area is definitely worthwhile in Sitka.

Noteworthy Meals

I never know where to eat when I travel but I always seem to find places that are spectacular and those that are just blah. This time I found many more spectacular than blah.

Homer:
Cafe Cups - The food is as quirky as the napkin rings which often have wing-nuts and beads woven into them. Cafe Cups makes use of a wide pallet of flavors and incorporates many sweet berries into their wonderful dishes of local seafood. I could eat there every night and never get tired of the ingenuity. I think there are more specials than there are regular entrees so you'll never get tired of the same old dishes.
The Homestead - Get out of town! If you are tired of the crowds on the spit and want a fabulous dinner without feeling crammed in like sardines, the Homestead is just the place. They specialize in fusion cuisine using all the bounty of the local fisheries. The service was fantastic and the food... wow! Just make sure to save room for dessert because this is the place to have it!
Captain Patties - On the spit

Juneau
The Twisted Fish - There were many restaurants in Juneau that were very tasty - we enjoyed burgers at the Red Dog Saloon and ate at a few other places but by far the Twisted Fish was the best meal. I had seafood over angel hair pasta with a pesto sauce that was out of this world.

Sitka
Ludvigs - I cannot thank the tour guide who recommended Ludvigs to us enough. It was by far the most amazing meal of the trip. The homemade breads for dipping in olive oil and seasoning almost spoiled my dinner - I had to set the bread aside though I kept snapping up more in between courses. The chowder was absolutely the best I have had in Alaska and perhaps even New England. I had Paella which was masterfully prepared and incredibly flavorful. I regret that there was no room for dessert as I am certain it would have been divine. A reason to come back to Sitka to be sure.